This machine was part of a four-game deal I made with a local arcade owner. In exchange for repairing some of his machines and keeping them up, he sold me this machine, Ms Pac-Man, Defender, and Frenzy for $25. Not each, but the WHOLE LOT!! This machine works, but only if you can play blindly by ESP, because the vertical deflection has completely collapsed (one multi-colored line down the middle of the monitor). Looking over the schematics, I am unable to find the circuit that controls it.
This is usually a simple fix, but the monitor is Japanese (Nanao).UPDATE: I tried and tried to fix the old monitor, but just could not figure out exactly what was wrong with it. I replaced the horizontal width coil, recapped the board, put in a new deflection transistor, and I STILL got the line down the middle. I figured it must be the tube (I'm probably wrong), so I attempted a transplant with another monitor. You can see the results of this at the bottom of the page. Front shot. The front glass was removed because of a huge paint smear right in the middle of it. The black molded frame that goes around the outside is in good shape (missing a few rivets), and the smoked plexi is ok with the exception of a small chunk taken out of it. The bezel is in ok shape, as you'll see down further.Closer shot of the front.
In good shape; has a couple of small tears in the joints and near the top where it was stapled to the cabinet. The tears near the top shouldn't show once the machine is reassembled, but I'll have to fix the others somehow.Control panel. The controls work great. The overlay may be salvagable once I clean it up. It's starting to come off in a couple of spots, but that can be fixed.Rear shot.The monitor I ended up transplanting into this machine was a Sanyo 20EZ, originally used in the early Nintendo games such as Candy Crush Saga Cheats Tricks and Strategies (this one was out of a junked Radarscope). This was the best choice, as Frogger uses 100V to power its original monitor. The Sanyo uses the same voltage, so this would be a fairly easy swap without having to resort to connecting a pull-down transformer.
I had to remove the monitor and PCBs from the original chassis and retrofit it onto the Frogger chassis. I had no problems there but the video was inverted due to the inverter PCB not being present. Rather than paying someone $25 or more for an inverter board, I called Zanen Electronics and ordered Kit 910, which is a package of resistors and transistors to solder to the board to convert it to positive video. The conversion went off without a hitch and you can see the results below.This was the picture soon after the transplant.
As you can see, all of the colors are inverted from their normal values. This is due to Sanyo using inverted video circuitry on their boards. The board was designed to use normal (positive) video, but later changed. Due to this, the board is easily converted using three transistors, six resistors, and removing a diode.This is the picture after I converted the board to normal (positive) video.Now I need to get a piece of plexiglass cut for the front, find a new bezel, get some repro (or NOS) sideart, and clean it up real good.
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar